Minca

After several days in Santa Marta, it was time to explore the largest coastal mountain range in the world, the Sierra Nevada De Santa Marta. We took a jeep from Santa Marta with two other travelers and traversed the winding mountain road for an hour until we arrived in the small village of Minca. Good thing I didn't forget my dramamine! We were greeted almost immediately by dirt bikers begging to take us the final 40 minutes up the mountain. We began negotiating prices and quickly realized that they would not budge, and we knew our alternative was to hike two hours uphill. Since nightfall was close, we paid our drivers and set out on our way. Phill's reluctance to hold his driver around the waist meant that he had to bear the weight of his pack while trying to balance on the back of the bike. Perched at the crest of the mountain range on a coffee farm lies the small hostel, Casa Elemento. We set our bags down and couldn't believe the breathtaking views. Soon after, the entire hostel sat down for the nightly "family dinner." We spent the next two days reading, hiking, drinking the local coffee, and enjoying the campfire in the cool evenings. It was nice to get a break from technology since the hostel had a strict no WiFi policy. When it was time to leave, we opted to hike down to Minca instead of taking the motortaxis. Since it was all downhill, how bad could it be? Let's just say after two and a half hours of hiking with the packs, my body wasn't too happy with me for the next few days. Despite the post-Minca pain, it was nice to break away from the city and enjoy what the mountain had to offer. 

First sunset

The hammock

All to myself

Pool with a view

We were told to come back in 3 mo for the "BBQ"

Our trusty map

Owner's dog decided to join us for the hike

How I really felt after the night hike

Smiling for the camera

Santa Marta city lights

Leaving Casa Elemento

The bamboo towers over Phill

Trekking along

Taganga & Playa Grande

We left Cartagena to escape the heat and traveled up the coast to a city called Santa Marta for five days. It is a small but busy city filled with fewer tourists and less humidity. Since finding the best beach around was top of mind, we planned to take a short day trip to nearby Taganga and Playa Grande. We ran into Phill's friend, Will, from Nueva Lengua and the three of us decided to share a taxi to the small fishing village. Immediately, we regretted not staying in this town since it had a more authentic Colombian beach vibe. We heard that it took only 20 minutes to hike to nearby Playa Grande so we tightened our laces and began hiking. Unfortunately for Will, his sandals didn't prove to be the best hiking shoes. Once we made it to the beach, we quickly laid out our towels and dove in. The water was the clearest we've seen on this trip and the temperature was perfect. We spent the day swimming, reading, and fending off beach hagglers. Just after sunset, we made our way back into town and stopped for mango smoothies before hailing a taxi home. Even though the ride was only supposed to be 15 minutes, locals managed to block off the roadway in protest of a city-wide water shortage. We had to get out of the taxi, walk through the roadblock while Colombians yelled at us, and finally hop in a taxi on the other side to take us home. Interesting to see local politics at work. 

Our home, La Brisa Loca i.e. the frat house 

Walking through Taganga

Hiking to Playa Grande

Colombians doing their part

Finally made it 

Phill drowned :(

So I resurrected him
 

Getting my tan on

Phill took this beauty

So fresh, so good

The roadblock 

Nueva Lengua

Last Monday, we started a week of Spanish classes in the old district. We did some initial research before arriving in Cartagena and had two schools we wanted to see in person before making a decision. After visiting them we settled on Nueva Lengua. We took a placement test and unfortunately my Mexican heritage did not give me any bonus points. Maybe it was Phill's unkempt facial hair that made him seem South American, but either way we were placed in two different levels. After two hours of class, the school offered free coffee and popcorn at 10am each day. While Phill drank about half of the available coffee, I managed to deplete the one bowl of popcorn almost entirely by myself. After the break, each of our teachers reviewed basic grammar, vocabulary, and oral exercises until 12pm. Both of us improved dramatically, despite Phill being corrected every day on how to say "Cartagena" and my inability to roll my r's. We typically spent the afternoons completing homework, practicing with our Colombian friend Sebastian, and cooling off in hotel pools.  

The grand entrance

Class on Friday

[ post-class poolside ] 

Rooftop pool

Nueva Lengua swim practice

New camera filters

Comida de Cartagena

Despite Cartagena being known as a more expensive Colombian city, we found some affordable food options off the touristy path. Most days, we would go to the supermarket, Exito, and purchase ingredients for a full meal for roughly 14,000 Colombian pesos (about $7 USD). Fish, meat, rice, and plantains are staples for locals. While we still indulged in the local food, we usually managed to incorporate a taste of home (avocado, lime, and cilantro) into every home-cooked meal. Colombians are also known for arepas, made with corn or flour and usually filled with cheese, meat, or eggs. And of course, I could not get enough of the fresh squeezed local juices available on every corner! 

Fresh pineapple juice for $1

Homemade lunch: steak, sauteed onions, and a mountain of guacamole

Fried fish, salad, rice, and plantains

Fried egg, arepa, ground beef, rice, and plantains

Keep the pineapple juice coming!

Bienvenidos a Cartagena

Cartagena: the city made famous by Michael Douglas and his questionable acting in the 80s movie Romancing the Stone. Coming from Houston, TX, the weather in Cartagena was by far the hottest and most humid we have ever experienced. To top it off, air conditioning is a prized luxury and in our hostel, it only made its presence known from 7pm to 11am. Despite this, nothing bonds you closer than huddling next to the AC with complete strangers.

A few minutes after arriving

Fruit vendor

Traditional Colombian dress

[ street art ] 

 The mission district in SF has some competition with the amount of street art in the city.

Getsemani District

Frutas y flores

Mi kartacho

La mujer

[ colonial buildings ] 

Cartagena has an energetic vibe stemming from its days as a Spanish colonial port.

El centro

Old colonial street corner

Una casa

Full bloom

Does Cartagena remind you of a place you have visited?