Last stop in Ecuador: Cuenca

After the Galápagos, we took a few days to decompress in Guayaquil before moving on to the quiet ex-pat headquarters of Cuenca. Perched high up in the Andes, Cuenca became famous as an agricultural hub thousands of years ago and is still defined by its laid-back and easygoing vibe. About 5,000 Cuencans are ex-pats that now call this city home. Our goal for the week in Cuenca was to take Spanish classes to refresh and expand on what we learned in Cartagena. Practicing our intermediate Spanish for almost three months had been extremely beneficial, however it also exposed areas that we needed help on. Our first day in town, we found a great Spanish school with private lessons that fit our expectations. We signed up for private lessons (1 on 1 for two hours per day) which still gave us time to explore the city in the afternoons and evenings.

Five minute walk from our hostel

Shanta's amazing teacher, Teresa

Cathedral of Immaculate Conception

European architecture in the town square

Lounging in the town square

It isn't hard to be tall in Cuenca

City hall

Old Spanish mansion converted into a hotel

Rio Tomebamba runs through the center of the city

Old wooden building in the historic district

Street art

Part II

Blown away by the ceviche

The best Argentine steak mixed with a traditional sauce

One of the many Cuenca markets

Devouring menu del dia at the market

We finally got the chance to cook again

Shanta getting hangry next to the tamales

The best tamales either of us have ever had

Drinks at breakfast

The meal that redefined breakfast for us

Booze, cards, and a 12 hour bus ride to Peru

Galápagos Part III

After Isabela, we traveled back to Santa Cruz to book a tour to Pinzón. Even though Pinzón was only recently opened to tourists, we had already heard many people raving about it so we made sure to add it to our itinerary. Although the boat ride was pretty rough (I was soaked before we arrived), the water was the clearest we had seen yet. This made for an unforgettable snorkeling adventure, especially when the animals aren't afraid to get in your face, literally!

[ pinzón ]

Right next to the captain

Managing a smile while holding on for dear life

Entering the shallow cove

Swimming with sea lions

He loved our bright yellow camera!

Schools everywhere

Playing tag

Loved this tiny guy

The little penguin relaxing with another sea lion

I almost didn't see this young sea turtle 

Very shallow water

Our boat for the day

Ready for more snorkeling along the shore

Baby ray

Finally saw a manta ray!

Can't believe they were so close to shore

Massive pelican

Couldn't resist lobster for $20!

Feasting 

[ kicker rock ]

San Cristóbal marked the last island before departing the Galápagos. Kicker Rock is a volcanic rock, now split in two, 30 minutes from the island. It's in the middle of the sea, so very cold! It also didn't help that my wet suit was one size too big. A haven for sharks, Kicker Rock is a popular place for snorkelers and divers. Had we not already been acclimated to sharks over the past several days, the sight of so many sharks 20 feet below us would have been pretty nerve-racking. 

Making our way in

One of many sharks

I was shivering so much!

Starfish

More playful sea lions

Leaving the rock

Time to get back on the mainland!

Galápagos Part II

After four nights on Santa Cruz, we left for Isabela Island. The 2.5 hour boat ride is known as one of the worst among the islands, but I was prepared with plenty of Anautin (Ecuador's Dramamine). Isabela didn't disappoint and was our favorite island. In just three days, we experienced very diverse terrains and climates as we hiked around volcanoes and snorkeled through lava bridges. Although the island itself is almost four times as big as Santa Cruz, the main town, Puerto Villamil, is much smaller and quaint. We would start the days with fresh baked goodies from the local bakery and had plenty of empanadas and seafood in the evenings. 

[ hike to the wall of tears ]

Along the trail to the Wall of Tears, we stopped and explored every side path. Unfortunately, our camera died before we reached the best viewpoint. We also saw a few more wild tortoises before we made it to the wall. 

Walking through a natural tree canopy

Locals take this crossing very seriously

Tiny hair-like thorns

Iguana showdown

These guys are so well camouflaged

Who knew iguanas were so photogenic

We found the tree of life 

Huge lava tunnel

[ sierra negra y vulcan chico ]

This five hour hike started in wet and muddy conditions, but quickly transformed into a hot and arid scene that made us feel like we were walking on Mars!

First view of the crater (10km wide)

Rainbow rolled in after the drizzle

Sampling some berries on the trail

Chit chatting with our guide, Luis

Lava rock

Hot lava vent (no lava currently present)

Close up of a lava rock

More lava tunnels and rocks

Altocumulus clouds

Endemic cactus

Walking through newer lava rock

Lava falls

So much lava!

Panoramic near the top

"With arrhhhms wiiiiiide opeeeeen"

You can even see Elizabeth Bay in the distance

Another photo for perspective

Heading back

Winding down with 2x1 drinks at happy hour

[ los tuneles ]

To visit the lava bridges and caves, you first have to start by taking a speedboat 30 minutes north of the port. Los Tuneles is particularly difficult to reach since the only way in requires the boat to ride the breaking waves until you reach the cove. We were especially lucky to make it in because the waves had been pretty rough the past three days, preventing any tours from reaching the tunnels. In fact, friends of ours who were on a different boat that day encountered a wave that swept some water into their boat and knocked a few passengers out of their seats. Despite some difficulty and the gloomy weather, this was one of my favorite days in the Galápagos!

Huge rock formation in the middle of the ocean

The start of Los Tuneles

Only wild penguins north of the equator

Lava bridges

Sea lions and a blue-footed booby

Blue-footed boobies nesting

Baby boobies!

Walking the bridges

Sea lions sleeping in a lava cave

All ready to snorkel

Young marine tortoise

Phill swimming under a lava tunnel

The rain didn't bother this sea lion

Getting ready for the 2nd snorkel of the day

Phill's making friends

Look at him go!

Family of white tipped sharks

Swimming with sharks

Getting a little closer

School of golden rays

Rays on rays

Time to get back on the boat

Greeted by napping sea lions on the pier 

[ biking around the island ]

Before our 3 o'clock boat out of Isabela, we decided to rent bikes for a few hours. We visited the giant tortoise breeding center and saw baby tortoises for the first time! It was also nice to revisit some of our favorite places on the island before leaving. 

Newborn tortoises need protection from local cats

These guys are my age and still so little!

Notice the flatter shells of this species

Mean muggin'

Bike selfie

Happy to see the flamingos out so early

Male fiddler crabs

Heading back so we don't miss the ferry!