We left San Pedro and took an overnight bus twelve hours down the coast to La Serena. It was a quick one-day stopover, then we took a day bus to Valparaiso. Valpo, as its sometimes called, is an eclectic city steeped in rich history. After we found a hostel and set our bags down, we started exploring the bohemian neighborhoods that give the city its personality. The city was once a thriving seaport, but the opening of the Panama Canal made the city obsolete to trade ships traveling from North America. The economy took a blow for decades, but the city has since rebranded itself as an educational mecca as well as the official cultural capital of the country. Universities abound in old buildings once used as maritime offices and detailed artwork is visible on every street corner. Today you'll find students, musicians, artists, and Chileans simply escaping the heat of nearby Santiago. While we spent close to a week exploring the city, we still left wishing we had more time. It was by far one of my favorite cities.
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Main avenue |
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Lounging in the park |
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Narrow corner building |
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Tree-lined plaza |
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Looking north |
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City at sunset |
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Victorian house overlooking the port |
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Cobbled streets and colorful buildings |
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Palace of Justice |
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Deep red |
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Assortment of colored houses |
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Old hotel |
To get into the hills of the city, everyone will tell you to use one of the vintage ascensores. This is a near-vertical carriage that will carry you to the top for a few cents. The city is dotted with 26 of these famous elevators, however only a handful remain active. These have the same charm to Chileans as cable cars do to San Franciscans.
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Ascensor, or "elevator" in English |
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Each is painted a different color |
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Taking a ride |
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Not the best way to go down |
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As steep as it looks |
The artwork in Valpo is everywhere. From sides of buildings to doors, windows, and parked cars, nothing is exempt from having an artist put his work on display. This is only a small handful of what we saw.
The last day, we went to the market with the owner of our hostel and bought a few items to make ceviche. The owner's son made us the ceviche and his family gave us a good sendoff before heading to Santiago.
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